Drabužių aksesuarai Klaipėdos pilies archeologinėje medžiagoje

LTStraipsnyje pateikiami drabužių aksesuarai, aptikti 2014 m. archeologinių tyrimų metu. Analizuojami 122 artefaktai, kurie saugomi Mažosios Lietuvos istorijos muziejuje. Tipologizuojamos sagtys, drabužių puošybai skirtos kniedės ir apkalai, įvairių formų sagos ir užsegimai, žvangučiai bei varpeliai. Pagrindinis dėmesys skiriamas formos analizei, pagal kurią ir sudaryta tipologija. Nors viduramžių papuošalai (segės, kabučiai, karoliukai, apyrankės, žiedai) gali būti skirtini drabužių ir asmeniniams aksesuarams, tačiau šiame straipsnyje jų analizės atsisakoma. Tai atskira ir plati tema, pristatoma kitose šio leidinio publikacijose. Be to, Lietuvos ir kai kuriose užsienio archeologijos istoriografijose yra nusistovėjusi tradicija išskirti papuošalų ir aprangos detalių grupes. Tyrimo chronologija apima XIII-XVI a. pradžią. Plati chronologija buvo nulemta archeologinio konteksto: radiniai aptikti XVI a. pradžioje suformuotuose supiltiniuose kultūriniuose sluoksniuose, kurie susidarė rekonstruojant konventinę pilį į bastėjinę. Kadangi straipsnyje analizuojamų dirbinių grupės yra aptiktos ne pirminiuose kontekstuose, o aprangos aksesuarai yra chronologiškai homogeniška grupė, tad tiksliai datuoti artefaktų kol kas neįmanoma. [Iš straipsnio, p. 190]Reikšminiai žodžiai: Klaipėdos pilis; Archeologiniai radiniai; Drabužių aksesuarai; Klaipėda castle; Archaeological finds; Clothing accessories.

ENArchaeological excavations at the castle site of Klaipėda, which took place in 2014, provided with a significant amount of archaeological data. A substantial number of finds appeared to be associated with clothing of local inhabitants during the period between the 13 th and the beginning of the 16th century. No analysis of clothes from Klaipėda has ever been carried out before due to a lack of archaeological evidence. Thus, clothing accessories, recovered during the investigations in the last decade, provided with useful insights concerning clothing of the medieval town dwellers. The 2014 excavations contributed the most to the collection of medieval clothing accessories from Klaipėda. The chronology of this study spans over the period between the 13th and the beginning of the 16th century. The broad time span is due to archaeological contexts, wherein finds where recovered from fills deposited during the reconstruction of an enclosed castle into a bastion. Consequently, finds were recovered from secondary contexts. Furthermore, they were interpreted as a chronologically homogeneous group and, as a result, more accurate dating is not yet possible. In the present-day Lithuania, as in neighbouring countries, the majority of clothing accessories are usually recovered from inhumation and cremation burials. Finds analysis has revealed that artefacts discovered at the castle site of Klaipėda were also likely to have originated from disturbed burials. Consideration of archaeological data from other burial sites present cultural tendencies which were prevailing across the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Thus, presumably, these were likely to have differed in the territories under the German influence.This article presents analysis of 122 artefacts discovered at the castle site of Klaipėda. These include clothing accessories such as brooches, buttons, staples, rivets and fittings, as well as bells and erotai bells. A total of 53 buckles were analysed and divided into types according to the shape of their rim: these were circular, semicircular, oval, D-shaped, square, rectangular and trapezoidal. Rivets and fittings were the most abundant find group analysed in this study. A total of 7 artefacts were recognised as rivets and were subdivided into types based on the shape of their head (round or six-leaf). Fittings stood out as a most abundant artefact group and were further subdivided into the following groups: plain or decorated, round/oval, square/rectangular, polygonal, variously shaped and other. There were only three finds of buttons and staples. Buttons were decorated with raised lines, while there was only a single find of a staple used to fasten collars. 25 finds were identified as erotai bells and bells. Crotal bells were further divided into types based on the method of production- i.e., cast in mold or two separate pieces joined together. The remaining three artefacts were identified as hollow bells. Different types of clothing accessories indicate that clothes, belts and other items worn in Klaipėda were differently adorned. Unfortunately, not all of the artefacts were identified as they could have been belonged to the attire of both humans and horses. Part of the accessories recovered in Klaipėda were popular across both the territories of Livonia and the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. However, accessory types such as buttons and bells were more prevailing in the Western Europe. It has been suggested that the study of clothing accessories would greatly benefit from analysis of metal composition as this would allow to accurately determine chronology and typologies. [From the publication]