Istorinis Lietuvos bajorijos kostiumas - Rytų ir Vakarų civilizacijų priešpriešos veidrodis

LTReikšminiai žodžiai: Apranga; Bajorai; Bajorijos kostiumas; Civilizacija; Drabužiai; Istorija; Kilmingųjų kostiumas; Lietuvos istorija; Mados istorija; Rytietiškas kostiumas; Sarmatai; Vakarietiška apranga; Civilization; Clothing; Costume; Fashion history; History; Lithuania; Noble costume; Noblemen; Oriental costume; Sarmatians; The Lithuanian history; Western dress.

ENIn 16th and 17th century Lithuania the Sarmatian intolerance, xenophobia and the concept of the unchanging world hindered the spread of new Western ideas and costume fashions. Costume was regarded as the sign of a social group. It was designed to express not the individual, but the group mentality. The Sarmatian mentality and costume fashion took their roots in Lithuania as a result of the long intense political activity of the Grand Principality of Lithuania in the eastern countries of Europe, which in their turn influenced Lithuania culturally. Thanks to this, the Oriental costume survived in the middle of Europe for centuries; whereas in Western countries fashions changed kaleidoscopically. In Lithuania only high officials and foreign nobility could accept Western dress. But the majority of Lithuanian nobility regarded the Sarmatian costume as a symbol of the status quo, which had to be defended against the corrupting influence of the West. Only at the end of the 18th century, thanks to the formation of new estates and the emancipation of people, the Sarmatian costume gave way to cosmopolitan Western fashions. Since then, the Sarmatian costume reappeared only in the periods of the most intensive struggle for national liberation as a manifestation of the national identity. [From the publication]