Žemaičių prijuostės XIX a. - XX a. pradžioje: dėvėjimo tradicija, puošybos būdai, meninė raiška

LTStraipsnyje sieksime atidžiau pažvelgti į žemaičių prijuosčių savitumą: aiškinsimės jų funkcijas ir simbolines reikšmes kaimo kultūroje, išryškinsime būdingus raštus, išvaizdos ypatumus, atspindinčius aptariamo laikotarpio meninius skonius ir madas. Norima atkreipti dėmesį į paskirų raštų paplitimą, jų komponavimo skirtumus įvairių Žemaitijos vietovių prijuostėse. Remtasi prijuosčių rinkiniais, sukauptais Anastazijos ir Antano Tamošaičių galerijoje "Židinys" (GŽ), Lietuvos dailės muziejuje (LDM), Lietuvos nacionaliniame muziejuje (LNM), Nacionaliniame M. K. Čiurlionio dailės muziejuje (ČDM), Mažeikių muziejuje (MM), Raseinių krašto istorijos muziejuje (RKIM), Šiaulių "Aušros" muziejuje (ŠAM) ir Žemaičių muziejuje "Alka" (ŽMA). Juos papildo šių muziejų gaunamų eksponatų registracijos knygų įrašai, etnografiniai aprašai, Lietuvos istorijos instituto bibliotekos rankraštyno (LII BR) etnologijos fonde (f. 73) sukaupta medžiaga. Etnografinių žinių apie prijuosčių dėvėjimo tradiciją ir lokalinius ypatumus suteikė Adomo Vitausko, Vlado Trinkos ir kitų autorių straipsniai, skelbti kraštotyros žurnale "Gimtasai kraštas". Tyrimui svarbių duomenų apie žemaičių prijuosčių tipų lokalizaciją, paremtą skirtingų audimo bei rankdarbių technikų paplitimu, rasta liaudies drabužių tyrinėtojų veikaluose. Straipsnyje nesistengiama aptarti visų muziejuose saugomų prijuosčių eksponatų, bus apsiribota būdingesniais ir ryškesnes tendencijas atspindinčiais pavyzdžiais. [Iš leidinio]Reikšminiai žodžiai: Dekoravimas; Ornamentai; Prijuostės; Prijusočių dekoras; Technikos; Tradicija; Tradicinis moterų kostiumas; Žemaitija (Samogitia); Aprons; Decoration; Decoration of aprons; Ornaments; Samogitia; Techniques; Tradition; Traditional women costume.

ENThe article seeks to provide insights into the distinctiveness of traditional aprons of Žemaitija region (an area of land that is low in relation to the surrounding country) worn at the 19th century and the early 20th century and to highlight traditional apron patterns and designs that reveal the fashion trends and styles of the time period concerned. The emphasis is laid on the extensiveness of certain apron patterns and their compositional diversities in various locations of Žemaitija. In the 19th century an apron was an essential item of women's clothing in Žemaitija. Some aprons of the old times were striped lengthwise and decorated with simple and easy patterns of stripes (straight or jagged stripes of different widths). The dominant colour of some aprons was white, while others - red. This type of aprons was widely worn in all districts of Žemaitija in the first half of the 19th century. However, in some locations aprons that were worn on feast days differed in their ornamentation and design. Aprons worn in the northern and southern part of Žemaitija differed considerably. In the middle of the 19th century in the northern part of Žemaitija (Mažeikiai, Skuodas, Kretinga) bright aprons in lengthwise stripes emerged. Their distinctive features - red and blue stripes were freely arranged with the dominance of red ones. Usually, stripes were decorated with thin white lines. In the western part of Žemaitija the dominant features of aprons were these: murky backgrounds decorated with multicoloured lengthwise stripes. Stripes of different widths were of diverse colour combinations: red, yellow, purple, blue, white; red, blue, brown, orange, white; red, black, white, yellow, blue, green.They distinguish themselves for asymmetrically arranged repeating patterns and rhythmic patterns of natural colours. In the middle of the 19 the century patterns of aprons of the southern part of Žemaitija were becoming more and more diverse. Lengthwise striped aprons were extremely eye-catching due to their graphic elements arranged on the white background with stripes composed of tiny toothed design elements, clovers, tiny rhombus patterns and curves. In the second half of the 19th century aprons were widely spread in the southern part of Žemaitija. Distinctive features of their ornamentation were these: bright or murky backgrounds preserving the serene mood decorated with bright lengthwise stripes of 2-4 different colours. By the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century in the north-western and central part of Žemaitija women wore multi-coloured aprons and white cotton aprons embroidered with white-on-white or the so-called (broderie anglaise) the English type of embroidery open work patterns and complex lattice designs (similar to the embroidery made at the bottom edge of petticoats, shirt collars, zipped cuffs, feminine cotton caps and kerchiefs). In the second half of the 19th century the import of manufactured goods and patterned textiles emerged. Particularly popular were the patterned cashmere textiles. They were used for sewing aprons, skirts and waistcoats. By the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century female villagers were weaving cloth for their own use; however, richer women used to buy expensive and colourful fabrics. It should be noted that the development of rural clothing was largely influenced by urban culture; therefore, similar decorative elements (occasional cross-stitch patterns of aprons and other ornamentation) were widespread in the neighbouring areas, regions and countries.Accessibility of the collections of aprons stored at Lithuanian museums (that are scarcely known to the public) to the ethnology and art studies provides resources necessary for carrying out researches on the folklore cultural heritage. The distinctive features of aprons of Žemaitija region discussed in this article enable us to form a sound estimate of the apron ornamentation as a separate part of a costume, unique design techniques and peculiarities of textures that might be an excellent material for the national costume explorations and costume design practices. [From the publication]

• Etnologija / Ethnology
• Menotyra / Arts