Lietuvių tradicinių rinktinių juostų ornamentas: tipologija ir semantika

LTKnyga skirta tradiciniam ornamentui, kuriuo buvo puošiamos rinktinės juostos, austos XVIII-XX a. pirmojoje pusėje. Rinktinės technikos juostos - turtingiausios ir sudėtingiausios ornamento požiūriu bei pačios gausiausios ir plačiausiai žinomos Lietuvoje. Jos audžiamos panašiai kaip rinktiniai audiniai: dugnas - drobiniu pynimu, o raštai išrenkami iš metmenų. Rinktiniųjuostų ornamentas - itin turtinga reikšmių požiūriu tautodailės sritis. Darbe pateikiama ornamento tipologinė ir semantinė analizė. Baltų tautose juostų ornamentas itin išpuoselėtas, reikšmingas ir vertinamas iki šiųdienų. Todėl aktualu ir įdomu išsiaiškinti, kokios yra tradicinių lietuvių rinktiniųjuostų ornamento sandaros taisyklės, jo saviti ir visuotiniai bruožai. Ankstesni autoriai šiais klausimais yra atlikę tik pradinius arba dalinius tyrimus. Užsienio ornamentikos albumuose tokio tipo ornamentas neišskiriamas kaip savarankiška, atskira sistema iš kitų ornamento stilių. Todėl šiame darbe, remdamiesi savo sukurta analizės metodika, pateikiame daugialypį, visuminį juostų ornamento vaizdą: atskleidžiame jo, kaip sistemos, ypatybes, įvairovę, regioninius savitumus, aptariame simbolikos bruožus. Šiuos tikslus įgyvendinti padėjo tarpdisciplininis požiūris. [Iš Pratarmės]Reikšminiai žodžiai: Rinktinės juostos; Ornamentas; Lithuania; Pic-up woven sashes; Ornament.

ENIn traditional folk culture knowledge about the world is preserved from decay by means of customary transfer. The core of the transfer consists of exceptionally vigorous archetypal elements. It is largely due to them that the ideals of spiritual being and of unity and inter-relation between peoples and cultures live on in society today. By introducing elements of relative stability and order into the changing world they secure the continuity of culture. The pattern woven onto sashes is one of many manifestations of archetypal folk culture. The origin of its form and symbolism dates back to ancient times. Thorough study and appreciation of the traditional character of ornament shows that it links us with eternal ideals, with our ancestors, and with the mythological world. The patterns express the national identity and original characteristics of Lithuanians also. However such patterns or signs, or symbols can also be found in other nations scattered over a vast territory. They belong to the same system, and they are surrounded by similar ideology. Clearly sashpatterns also contain universal elements, as is typical of archetypes. The present book is devoted to the traditional ornament used to decorate pick-up sashes woven therein in the late 18th through to the first half of the 20th centuries. In terms of ornament, pick-up sashes are the most rich and complex works of folk art. In spite of the effort and skill required to make them, they are common throughout Lithuania. Sashes made by other means of crafting techniques are heavily outnumbered by those using the pick-up method. The technique of pick-up woven sashes is similar to the one used for home made pick-up woven fabrics: the background is woven in a cotton plait whereas the pattern is taken from the warp. From the point of view of semantics, the ornament of pick-up woven sashes represents an exceptionally rich area of folk art.The work undertaken here gives a typoligical and a semantic analysis of ornament. In Baltic nations the ornament is exceptionally sophisticated and significant. It has been highly valued up to the present day. Therefore it is urgent to clarify the rules governing the structure of the ornament of traditional Lithuanian pick-up woven sashes. It is equally important to show both the particular and universal characteristics of this ornament. Though the ornament of traditional Lithuanian pick-up woven sashes was previously investigated from various perspectives, the research has tended to be rather fragmentary, incomplete or elementary. That is, the previous research failed to exhaust all aspects of the subject, to cover all of the territory of Lithuania and all the principal collections of pick-up woven sashes. However, foreign albums on ornament do not distinguish this type of ornament as an independent or separate system existing alongside other ornamental styles. For this reason, in this work, we present a manifold general picture of ornament woven in Lithuanian sashes. By means of a special method of analysis elaborated here, we reveal characteristics, diversity, and regional peculiarities of the ornament as a system. Certain aspects of symbolic language displayed by the ornament are also discussed in this work. An interdisciplinary approach has helped us to achieve these goals. This book elaborates on a doctoral thesis on ethnology (humanities) presented by the author in 1998 in Vytauti Magnus University. Information and iconographic material on sashes was gathered during field investigations undertaken between 1987 and 1998. The material also draws from data found in museums, private collections, archives and selected publications by other authors.Having done a thorough research into the patterns of pick-up sashes found in the whole territory of Lithuania and in all principal collections and made integral use of structural, contextual and comparative investigations, combining the ethnological, the art science and the mythological points of view, we were able to reveal an exceptionally rich array of artistic and symbolic manifestations of sash ornament. This enabled us to take a fresh look at the ornament as a uniform but complex system of forms and meanings. On the grounds of the form of ornament (style, composition, structure) and regional characteristics and semantics of the patterns (folk denominations, relations of denominations or signs with mythic images) we categorised the patterns woven onto sashes in a systematic and typological manner. On the basis of a formal developmental reconstruction and diachronic-comparative analysis, we have proposed our hypothesis regarding the origin of signs and archetypes. We distinguished the basic types of ornamental motifs and explained the methods of sign interpretation. We investigated the structural composition of ornament; namely the types of ornament, the principles of sign combination and the ratios of pattern to background. In the traditional Lithuanian sash pattern we tried to distinguish both the archetypal, that is universal, and the national, specific or regional characteristics of sash ornament. Here is attempt in this work to put it into a wider context of universal sash ornamentation and to show that the signs concealed in it have undergone a thousand-year development of form and semantics. We tried to prove the semantic relationship between ornament and mythology - both Lithuanian and Indo-European in general. The principles of analysis elaborated in this book can be used in the research of sashes of other nations also. [From the publication]

• Etnologija / Ethnology
• Menotyra / Arts