Lietuvių liaudies kostiumo rekonstravimas ir gamyba XX amžiuje

LTStraipsnio tikslas – apžvelgti lietuvių tautinio kostiumo kūrimo istoriją nuo 1900 metų iki XX a. pabaigos vienu aspektu – kaip pastangas (bandymus) rekonstruoti liaudies kostiumą. Skirtingais laikotarpiais kostiumo kūrėjų siekiai, galimybės ir tautinio kostiumo kūrimo metodika gerokai skyrėsi, tad mūsų kultūroje buvo įsitvirtinę skirtingi jo modeliai. Ilgą tautinio kostiumo formavimosi procesą lydėjo sistemingas žinių kaupimas ir naujų požiūrių proveržiai. [Iš leidinio]Reikšminiai žodžiai: Tautiniai kostiumai; Liaudies drabužiai; Folk costume.

ENThis article reviews the history of the creation of the Lithuanian folk costume from 1900 to the end of the 20th c. In different periods, the goals, opportunities and methods of the costumes’ creators varied greatly. This time we will discuss attempts to reconstruct the folk costume, i.e. to create a costume similar to what was worn in the countryside and perceived as being ‘real’. Looser interpretations of folk clothing are not addressed. The fashion of national costumes formed differently in different countries, but, as with cultural nationalism as a whole, was widespread throughout Europe. The rise of national feelings during certain periods resulted in the public’s wish to wear national costumes, while the need for these costumes stimulated and accelerated necessary academic research. As the public’s enthusiasm grew, costume-makers appeared who were devoted to the idea or who saw the prospect of a successful business. Therefore, the history of research into traditional folk clothing is closely related to the development of crafts and business.Although the concept of the Lithuanian national costume formed in the early 20th c., from the 1930s it also gained a theoretical basis, manufacturing of national costumes was impeded by the existence of only partial outfits at museums and slow scientific research. As there was a lack of authentic examples, stylised costumes took their place – for a long time they were what was known to the general public, while reconstructions of folk costumes were only an alternative activity for a small circle of specialists and enthusiasts. Only from the last decade of the 20th c. were reconstructed costumes becoming more popular, albeit it was often difficult to make or purchase them. In the 21st c. a more serious theoretical background for restoration was formed and the reconstructed folk costume, vital to the preservation of our traditions, established itself as being equal to or even superior to the stylised version. [From the publication]