Lithuanian folk costume : a contested symbol of national identity : disertacija

LTReikšminiai žodžiai: Tautiniai kostiumai; Tradicija; Kultūra; National costumes; Tradition; Culture.

ENThis study focuses on the meanings of “national costumes,” tracing their role in social contexts and outlining the ways in which they are “invented” and “reinvented.” National costumes are invented at crucial moments in history. In Lithuania, invention first occurred during the national awakening beginning in the 19th century. By the 1930s, a single national garb, one which could be worn at social functions and by performers at cultural events, was proposed and adopted, mainly by the educated classes. After World War II, the tradition split into two trajectories — emigre and Soviet. Lithuanians fleeing Russian occupation transported it into exile, and maintained it abroad. During the Soviet occupation, national costumes were mass-produced and worn at official state functions. They were designed to communicate Soviet identity. The link with actual peasant traditions became more tenuous, and the transformation of the costume continued for as long as the state could maintain control over cultural activities. The “reinvention” of the national costume involved reestablishing the link with 19th century peasant traditions. This meant copying historical sources as closely as possible, without embellishments. New cultural authorities anticipated that once the “correct” costume was reestablished, normal lines of transmission would resume and the costume could evolve naturally.This dissertation examines how the “reinvented” costume became a symbol of resistance to the subjugated people of Lithuania. Since the late 1960s until the reinstatement of independence in 1990, it has evolved and its popularity has spread from urban areas into smaller towns and villages. It is worn by the members o f folklore ensembles, groups dedicated to the performance of folk songs, dances and rituals in their “authentic” (unaltered) form. The study concludes that the national costume is a fluid interpretation contested by various groups. Each develops different standards of authenticity which creates a conflict when rival interpretations meet. The dynamic tension between the historically accurate portrayal of folk culture and creativity in contemporary expression is discussed. The reinvented costume is explored as a bearer of multiple meanings in the context of different types of cultural events. [From the publication]