Kodėl moterys privalo būti gražios? : Moteriškumo sampratos kaitos atspindžiai Lietuvos tarpukario spaudoje

LTTarpukario Lietuvoje besiformuojantis vidurinysis tautinis miestiečių socialinis sluoksnis aktyviai ieško saviidentifikacijos atspirties taškų. Vienu jų tampa modernus moters grožio etalonas, pabrėžiantis tiek kosmopolitines sąsajas su "statuso broliais" Vakaruose, tiek minėto sluoksnio tautines ambicijas, tiek ribas, skiriančias jį nuo žemesnių socialinių grupių valstybės viduje. Pranešime aptariamos moteriško grožio standartų konstravimo tendencijos, atsispindinčios 1925 - 1940 m. Lietuvos spaudoje. [Iš leidinio]Reikšminiai žodžiai: Moterų mada; Grožio standartai; Socialinė saviidentifikacija; Vidurinysis miestiečių sluoksnis; Women fashion; Beauty standarts; Social self-identification; Urban middle class.

ENIn interwar Lithuania, the rising urban middle class wa actively searching for a basis for self-identification. Th modern standard of feminine beauty came to be one c these. Its construction is reflected in the periodical put lications established in the late 1920s and oriented tc wards the social class under analysis. The outward appearance of a woman indicated th social status of a group represented by her, therefore : had to match certain conventional models. The standar of feminine beauty adopted by the urban middle class wa changing in parallel with Western fashion tendencies, bu simultaneously it developed some peculiar features. Th perpetual balancing between the own, national things am those borrowed yet modern manifested itself in the com petition among two standards of beauty - natural am modern. The first one was represented by a blond long haired Lithuanian girl celebrated in Maironis’ poems am the symbol of the latter was a lady from Kaunas sprucei up in accordance with the latest fashion trends from Paris.During the whole period of independence, the stan dard of natural beauty has retained, at least formally an unquestionably high position in the national systen of values, although columns on housekeeping hints in tht periodicals show that city dwellers tended to follow ths Western standards. Nevertheless, urban society held ths view that natural beauty was indispensable to country women and that the chase of fashion was alien to theii nature. The so-called modernism of countjy girls was viewed as an open sore threatening the roots of nationality. At the same time, a modern city woman was normally treated as a symbol of the progress of society. Suci a double-standardness demonstrates the endeavours of the urban middle class to delineate its territory in Lithuanian society. On the other hand, the fostering of the national ideal of natural beauty, though frequently formal, witnesses the striving of the urban middle class to identify itself as a national group by means of contrasting itself to national minority groups of similar status, which frequently were more advanced in cultural and economic terms. [From the publication]

• Etnologija / Ethnology
• Menotyra / Arts