Nuometai Lietuvoje pagal rašytinius ir ikonografinius šaltinius

LTStraipsnyje pristatomi vieno archajiškiausių lietuvių kaimo moterų galvos apdangalų – nuometų – paminėjimai įvairiomis kalbomis skelbtuose rašytiniuose šaltiniuose ir XIX a. liaudies aprangos tyrimuose. Remiantis rašytiniais, ikonografiniais šaltiniais ir iš dalies etnografine medžiaga, muziejų rinkiniais, straipsnyje atkreipiamas dėmesys į teritorinį nuometo pavadinimo paplitimą Lietuvoje, žodžio vartojimo kontekstą, aiškinamasi, ar visada taip vadinta moterų galvos danga ir kiek Lietuvoje paplitęs nuometų su pabarzde rišimo būdas. Reikšminiai žodžiai: etnografiniai regionai, ikonografija, moterų galvos danga, nuometai, paplitimo ribos, rašytiniai šaltiniai. [Iš leidinio]

ENIn Lithuania in the 18th–19th centuries, the head covering of married village women and girls differed. The wimple is considered one of the most archaic head coverings for women. In the 19th century, wimples were worn in the most popular way in upland Lithuania: when one end of the cloth is draped under the chin and the other folded and wound around the head. Single cases are known in Dzūkija. A similar head covering of women is also known among Lithuania’s closest neighbours – Belarusians, Latvians, Poles, and in more distant countries – Ukraine, part of Russia and elsewhere. The term “wimple” can be found in the first dictionaries of the Lithuanian language and in various legal documents of the 17th–18th centuries together with the inventories of personal and institutional assets. In the dictionaries, it is usually described as a women’s head covering, but it can also mean an altar cloth or a crown covering. The purpose of the wimples is rarely fixed in legal documents. The written and iconographic sources concerning the wimples can be divided into three main groups according to the territory: Lithuania Minor, Samogitia and upland Lithuania. In writing about the clothes of Lithuanian women, the authors of the 17th–19th centuries mentioned oblong coverings placed or tied on the head. It should be noted that none of them, while examining the parts of the clothes and the peculiarities of the regions in detail, mentioned that the described head coverings were tied under the chin.So far, no iconographic examples confirming this method of tying have been found in Lithuania Minor. Therefore, it is concluded that in Lithuania Minor there were different or differently tied head coverings than in the 19th century in upland Lithuania. There is no detailed information that there were wimples in Samogitia, until when they existed and, most importantly, how they were tied and worn. There are no wimples from Samogitia in the collections of Lithuanian museums. Researchers of traditional clothes guess that they disappeared in Samogitia, maybe even at the end of the 18th century. Most of the written and iconographic data are about the wimples in upland Lithuania. In North-Eastern Lithuania, the wimples were generally worn by married women until the end of the 19th century. This fact is evidenced by iconographic sources and collected abundant ethnographic material. In this region, women tied their wimples in a more or less similar way – wound around their heads and another part tied under chins and draped on their chests. Considering the available material, we can only talk about wimples draped on the chests in upland Lithuania and part of eastern Dzūkija. Currently, we do not have enough data from other regions that in the 18th–19th centuries, wimples were tied there exactly in this way. [From the publication]